HNL, Good Surf, and Good Times
Currently listening to “Strip” by Adam Ant.
Went to Honolulu to see my cousin, G and help him celebrate the 21st Anniversary of his 21st birthday. I took the cheapest flight there and was greeted at the gate by one of these.
This plane was so small, I had to go outside to get something out of my pocket. Anyway, the flight was amazingly smooth due to the lack of trade winds so early in the morning. I picked up my rental car and then met my Titleist rep for some surf. The waves were all time—the best I’ve ever seen Waikiki. After a half mile paddle out, we made it to the lineup. Crowd was in full effect but there were peaks everywhere so it wasn’t that bad. I surfed until I couldn’t see anymore and then ate at Islands Fine Burgers at AMC.
The next day, I drove up to the North Shore to see my other cuz, Ricky and picked up my other surfboard. Unfortunately, country was taking a swell nap so I had to go back into town and filled my cup again. I was kinda bumming on the crowds but they were mellow plus they had as much of a right to enjoy this swell as I did. Cut the sesh short because I came down with a case of “noodle arms”.
That night, I caught up with G again at his friends house for his party. I was kicking myself because I forgot to bring my camera. This place was huge and right on the water. It felt like an MTV party complete without the pretension. Everyone was cool and very stylishly dressed. He even hired a sushi chef to make sushi for everyone which was a nice touch I must say. I left a lil early because I had to catch the 6 am flight back to Lanai the next morning.
The next day I board the plane and see at least three people I know from Lanai-that’s how small this island is. I got home and then slept for about three hours. I get up and head to the beach for some more surfing. I get there and the surf is still firing. Overhead and a little mushy, I head out to the lineup and greet “da Boyz”. A couple of double overhead sets rolled through and got my heart pumping but I was still in my comfort zone. I can’t tell you how much my surfing has improved since I’ve been here. I charge bigger and sketchier waves here than I would’ve in California.
All in all, I would have to say this weekend belonged to the “best surf” category. But, in the big picture, I would say these past two weeks have been so epic that it’s more than that. I met some really good people, some very interesting even. This post wouldn’t be complete with a Top Ten so here goes..
10. The great thing about living in Hawaii is when you get back from vacation, you’re still in a vacation setting.
9. Seeing a Monk Seal at the beach.
8. Getting my Jamba Juice fix.
7. Picking up that porkpie hat I’ve been eyeing online.
6. Partying with family.
5. Getting the best rides of my life on two different islands.
4. Leaving Ms Z in the dust on my skateboard (jk)
3. DJing two parties, one on the beach under the stars even.
2. Slowly reaching my goals.
and…
1. Finally enjoying life to the fullest!!
3 years ago